Reflections

Laundry, laundry and more laundry !
Staying in a tent for two weeks, my house feels so big!
While I was hanging up the laundry, there was an almost painful silence . Why is it so quiet ?  It took me a while to realise I missed hearing the birds. They would literally wake me up for Fajr in the morning and I had gotten so used to hearing them.

Due to the long hot drives we had to drink plenty of water, but "good" water was scarce. Even the water we had with didn't taste so lekker, so we stocked up on sachets of ice tea and juice to add to it.
But obviously with all the drinking, the kids needed to "ertjie", eventually we set the potty up in the back of the car so they could just go whenever they needed, even if we were driving.

Petrol, unleaded, diesel - at many points we'd find petrol stations had run out of one or the other.

Vet fences in Botswana are to monitor meat. No raw meat is allowed to move south.

While blogging and reflecting I realised what a "bangbroek" I am !
After our previous adventure through the Eastern Cape we had wanted to go with a group.
Now having gone with a tour group, we realise how restricted you are.
Had we done this on our own (which we could have as the roads weren't bad at all!) we would have probably changed the route to get more 4x4'ing. Being restricted with days and times and schedules also wasn't quite what we liked.

Marwaan is eager to return to Botswana, but I ...... I need to forget some of the fear I felt first ;-)

Going home

Marwaan and I got up for Fajr. The plan was to take wudu at the camp so as to not do the long walk, but we needed to go. Towards the end of the path I saw something odd – it looked like dung but mashed ! Marwaan was convinced it was there before (or maybe he was trying to convince me) but as I had taken particular note the previous day, I KNEW it was fresh! Apparently this is what happened last night :

The rhino hid in the bush (the one alongside our path to the toilet) chewing whatever rhinos chew. He came out – did his thing on our path and walked up to our camp! He then cut through the shortcut to the other camp (the same one we had used !) and broke a branch ! He squeezed around the cars, trailers and table scratching them, making his way to the communal tap behind the tour guides car! All this while the big fire and noisy campers were on site !!

Marwaan felt like he missed out! Convinced I felt the trailer move again last night, I checked for tracks around us, Alhamdulillah nothing – my protection bubble worked !!

Jumped in the car to do our rhino sighting. Marwaan moaned that we were out too early again ! We saw a kudu and Muhammad shouted “CAMEL!” , he is is father's son !! We saw wildebeest, giraffe, ostrich, zebra  – blah blah where are the rhino ? After almost 2 hours we still saw nothing! It looked like it would rain, so we came back to camp to pack up. We had missed most of the campers leaving. We ate, packed up, hooked the trailer, said farewell to the tour guide and tried once more. We saw dung and prints but no rhino. The km home are too many to spend time hunting Mr Rhino! Another time insha'Allah !

We started the trek home.....

  

Marwaan initially said he'd sleep along the way and drive like the wind! So I threw all our pjs in the laundry and we were down to our last set of clean clothes.

As we approached Gabrone the kids got hungry, Muhammad asked for 'col-drink and pizza!' We found a shopping center called The Square and Nandos was halaal so we indulged. The kids even got a kids meal – and the toy kept them (and me) busy for a while!

No more vet fences and the border crossing went quickly. On the SA side, our petrol tanks were checked – but they only checked one, which happened to be the only empty one of the lot!!

I saw a hoopoe bird in Mafikeng!!

Marwaan hinted at sleeping over in Mafikeng. We had only just entered SA and still have hundreds of km plus it wasn't even late yet ! Saw a masjid and made our way there, made it in time for magrieb salaah. Still pretty full from lunch, so we drove on – only to stop when we saw some of our campers stranded on the side of the road. Their car broke down and the wife left her bag at the border ! Fortunately they had help so we moved along, making our way to Vryberg. The kids were moaning so much, that I decided we'll spend the night. Aasiyah got a toasted sandwich from Captain Dorego's (halaal). We booked a room at a lodge. It was very basic (more so than in Windhoek) but hot showers and a heater (and a tv) had all of us happy. It got terribly cold and Marwaan was grateful that we didn't opt to sleep in the car.

7am we left Vryburg. We had a choice of paths home and dates for Ramadaan led us towards Upington. Muffins and Hot chocolate from Engen garage was our breakfast. We saw a masjid on N14 just outside of the town. The drive was uneventful, we barely stopped as we just wanted or needed to cover ground to get home. This was the last stretch!!

We found dates, but not plenty. One pack was very yummy, juicy and wet !

So in an attempt to cover a shorter distance, Marwaan opted to take the R364 to Clanwilliam. This would have been ok if it was still daytime, but it was around dusk, the dusty road was muddy at places and even though Marwaan managed to drive at a higher speed and save time, I was clinging to my chair! The kids started offf laughing at the bumpiness and downhills, but the darkness soon made us weary as we could just about see the path and which way it winds. Botterkloof – I refused to look left and see how far up we were! Marwaan's spot lights we loose so they shone up to the stars or against the hill – which would be great if we were looking for rhino or leapoard! A sigh of relief when we finally hit tar. By 8pm we were 150km away from home, so we had to keep going. 9pm and we felt exhausted ! We got home at 10:30pm. Alhmadulillah!

Lekhubu Island – Serowe

After packing up, the children I go to 'the drop', I used Tabbard as before. This was Aasiyah's first visit and she kept saying “it's stinky!” Muhammad refused to go ! For some or other reason this morning I just couldn't handle the smell, I gagged worse than before and walked away. The stench seemed to stick to me! As soon as we got to the next camp I took a shower ! The car needed a jump start, hope the battery is ok and lasts.

On the way, we passed Letlakane and saw a masjid sign. Pity we couldn't stop.

CAMP: Kama Rhino Sanctuary 

I left Marwaan to do the setting up while I washed. We occupied two campsites. Once again the sites are big, each site having a magificent tree. Marwaan had positioned our trailer in such a way that our kitchen area faced the bush – this had me a bit nervous, as I had no idea what lurked in the bush at this camp ! Most of the other campers settled in and went for a game drive. We needed petrol (and sugar) so we went to town. There were plenty of moon and star signs – but on random things like an electronics shop! Chicken Licken was halaal, but we didn't buy. Back at the camp we had chicken curry and roti which was yummy as the air was getting quite cold.

The walk from our camp to the ablutions (which was ok, a few cobwebs but great considering previous 'drop') was quite long and the path had a bush on one side. I felt uncomfortable with that, though comforted to note no dropping along the path.

Camp fire was pretty much a farewell as many were opting to leave the next day (including us). We had only one plan – to see a rhino, then we'd leave. Most of the campers had seen one or two in the earlier drive, so we were hopeful. After putting the kids to bed, Marwaan went with me to the bathroom (as I didn't want to go alone). On our return we went back to the communal fire to warm up and say a few more goodbyes. We took a shortcut via the bush to our camp and climbed in to bed. It was chilly and I took a while to settle. I could hear the partying at the next camp and heard someone say “ there's a rhino behind your car!” It sounded jovial and as I didn't hear any screams or shouts of horror, I thought it was a joke – though a poor one considering where we were !!

Recited surahs for protection and hoped for no more nightmares.

Lekhubu Island

“Lekhubu is a rock out crop which was sometime submerged in the water of the lake. This rock outcrop is engulfed by the white sea of salt, making it to remain as an island jutting in the middle of the flats. The ruins found on the island are said to have been an initiation centre for initiation schools for San males.”

 Well today would be my initiation day !

'The stranger' (aka istinja bottle) and I, armed with Tabbard went to the long drop. We dragged Marwaan with as there was no branch across the path! He thought I was foolish, spraying Tabbard outside, inside, on the door, down the 'drop' ! It wasn't perfect, but it worked! Having the door open also helped, as I could keep my head out rather than in ! If you are trying to picture it – the cubicle was THAT small so I could well be a tortoise !!

Muhammad and Marwaan took a drive around sunrise and took lovely photos.

After breakfast we took a walk around the island, admiring the magnificent baobab trees (have I typed it enough for you to know how inlove I am with these trees ?) Photographing almost every tree we saw! I can't explain how KWAAI they look – yes they are bare, but the bark is so smooth and the way the light glows on it – it's AWESOME ! 

 As we approached the side of the island overlooking the pans, an icy wind blew. As we were alone on our walk, one could imagine what a desert would have been like (without the baobabs of course! So just turn to look at the pans) Marwaan found a hiking trail which crossed the island, so we followed and the kids enjoyed it. We found stones which could well be gemstones, a pod from a baobab with cream of tartar in tact ! We tasted it but Marwaan was concerned. Muhammad found a bug he'd never seen before. A climb to the “top” had us breathless – with a 360 degree of the island. As we walked I heard Muhammad say “Marsha' Allah”.

Although we saw dung aplenty, there was no signs of any animal life. When we returned from our walk it was 10am. Now what can we do ? Aasiyah went over her lessons and when the other kids returned from exploring the island, they all got together and played. Marwaan and I read and then he took a nap. I longed for a shower -perhaps just because there wasn't one!

At sunset we went out onto the pan. It was spectacular “Marsha Allah” ;-) Marwaan and the kids ran out into the pans and went crazy with taking photos so much so that our battery died!

We were also out of sugar, so I had to get some from my neighbours.

Kasane to Lekhubu Island

Turns out the first gunfire was poachers then the second and the car speeding was the anti-poaching unit. Another pack-up-and-move-along morning. I've gotten so used to it, I no longer rush. Aasiyah got bonus today! We had loads of “ertjie” stops due to vet fences. (I know it makes no sense, but I won't make the logic public). At a petrol stop in Nata we found halaal Barcelos ! Chicken burgers never tasted so good !!

I don't know the exact km, but 90km through the pans took us 3 hours !!

Beautiful baobab after beautiful baobab 

Subhanallah ! 

I saw a vultures nest in one !

CAMP :

We were told it was an eco-friendly camp. It was 'eco', I'm not so sure about 'friendly'.

The camp was rustic. No water, no electricity, no reception and a long-drop!

The site was big and all of us could fit on it spaciously. There was a huge baobab under which we setup camp.

Having been to Mina on Hajj, I rekoned I could handle a long-drop. I couldn't! I gagged! I couldn't handle the smell. Perhaps if one left the door open and didn't contain the stench.

I used the potty. I think we should get a porta-potty in future. I can't stoop so low over a kids potty. Why didn't I go in the bush ? I didn't feel it was bushy enough to make me feel 'covered'. 

 The sunset was spectacular and it wasn't that cold.

At the camp meeting it was decided that the toilet door would remain open and a stick would be used to indicate it was in use.

Senyati Lodge

Baboons were very noisy this morning. At some point there was a fight at the watering hole. Marwaan went down and said baboons were running all over the place – looked like a family feud !

The ablutions seemed to be attacked from the top. The thatch was lying around – Marwaan figured it could only be a giraffe (long neck) and having a tracks book we tried to locate it – but no luck! Turns out it was baboons.

I realised that the yucky leaves on the floor had some use – they cracked when you walked on it – so surely it would crack too if there were dangerous animals, right ?

I kept hooking on a thorny branch lying on the ground – I nearly pulled it away, but figured it might deter animals from coming to the no-door-loo!

We had nothing planned for the day so we had an easy morning, did some laundry after breakfast and had a lukewarm shower. We decided to take drive down Hunters Road. It runs down the border between Botswana and Zimbabwe. Marwaan stated that the road led to a tar road taking us to town, so being adventurous we'd use it as our route. The road is below a hill and we assumed the other side of the hill was Zimbabwe. There were 2 paths, paralell to each other and we opted for the better road. We saw quite a few elephant, warthog and birds. After a while, sure enough we saw a tar road ahead. We approached and looked out – to the right was a long tar road, to the left …. the road seemed blocked, a few men played soccer and I noted a “Thank you for Visiting” sign. We were confused and then I noticed a ZIMBABWE flag !! Oops we were in Zim ! We quickly reversed and retraced our path which took us to the town.

We took a drive around the town, popping in at Spar, Choppies and Pep. We got some lunch at KFC (halaal) but it was not finger lickin good ! We popped in at Chobe Safari Lodge which was VERY fancy. Marwaan wanted to stay fora coffee – but Muhammad was already eyeing all the décor so I refused. Having not seen much in terms of curios, Aasiyah and I popped in at the craft center and got a few momentos. The documentary about Legadema, the Leopard was on and it turns out that's in Chobe ! I also asked about Rhino and both are deep into the reserve. I figured we'd see rhino at the sanctuary later in the tour.

We spent the afternoon watching elephant and other animals at the watering hole. It's truly amazing watching them. I am convinced that one of the elephant could hear us as he keep turning to look at us and opened his ears. We'd keep quiet then he'd settle down. The kids were in stitches again when he lifted his tail and deposited some dung in the water, when he extended to “ertjie” and it sounded like a full blast hose pipe – they could not contain themselves. Giggles continued as he walked away with it dangling like a trunk between his legs ! The next lot to have a drink were baboons. They were better behaved than the morning lot, but when a new herd of elephant arrived, they chased the baboons away. Interesting, the one who chased them went to the spot at the hole where the baboons drank, sucked up some water in his trunk then spray it out as if cleaning the area. A baby accompanied this herd and he was too cute, stretching forward trying to drink. We took a break for supper then returned just around sunset. A new herd. One elephant rubbed it's trunk against a tree, all the leaves came falling down like rain ! When it got dark, the herd just seemed to disappear into the night. They are so huge yet so graceful and quiet. A new herd held formation to have a complete 360 degree view. 3 of the herd disappeared and the remaining one held formation for a new herd which included young.

That night at the camp fire, we could hear an elephant growl, but it sounded very close! I was scared again and went back to our tent very cautiously. The growling continued and then I heard a soft roar – but it was just Marwaan and Muhammad snoring. When I felt the tent shake I was convinced it was an elephant rubbing against us, but it was just Marwaan turning. Then there was gunfire, a bit of animal noise, then hectic gunfire. Silence and then the sound of a car rushing around the camp. Whatever it was, I was not going to find out until morning when the sun was up and bright and I felt safe.

Chobe National Park

Alhamdulillah I survived !! 

We got up early, packed some eats and (everyone still in Pjs) went to Chobe. Marwaan thinks we got there too early – there wasn't much happening. The first animal we saw was “a buck”. It took Marwaan a day in Chobe to learn all the names ! The lilac-breasted roller was exquisite. We saw baboons cuddling in a bush. As we made our way towards the river we saw a very hairy buck with a white circle on it's bottom – a Water-buck. At the river we saw hippo in the distance as well as buffalo (thank goodenss we have the binoculars). A few hornbills perched in a tree and we took a photo of everything! Plenty of the same one, near and far ! Good thing we had that extra memory card ! Every bird species was photographed so that we could identify later on. And we saw PLENTY here at Chobe – too many for me to list. At some point along the river route the track went closer to the riverbank and we came really close to hippos. We parked for a while watching them, admiring them and being safe in our car away from them. Soon the river became alive with more and more animals being sighted – warthog, impala (and they are ABUNDANT), geese, birds, crocodiles.

We saw the banded mongoose again. Every now and then we'd spy a herd of elephant, some in large groups, others a few. Kudu, eland, roan antelope and something which had stipes like a kudu and dots like a deer! The path took us to the riverfront and then back inland so we constantly had a variety. It seemed as if some areas were more favoured by certain animals than others. We'd seen hippos in one region and buffalo in another, impala on one plain and giraffe on another. Further down the river was mainly baboons. Aasiyah had wanted to see giraffe. They are beautiful in a “lomp” kind of way, but not very exciting to watch and soon the novelty wore off. 

Marwaan was eager to find lions and stopped a ranger to ask if he knew where we could find them. He directed us but we didn't have a map and eventually found ourselves in the area he told us about. We didn't see anything and Marwaan being Marwaan, saw a path and wanted to take it (I didn't) and we landed smack bang behind a pride of lions feasting on buffalo rump! Marwaan parked the car as close as he could, but unfortunately that was my side that was closest and I had to take the pics. I say unfortunately as I was beyond scared and freaked when he lowered the window for me to take pics! 

It was cute watching the cubs play though. I was a bit disappointed when I saw the male lion, as his mane wasn't very big and I had mistaken him for a lioness! 

We tried in vane to find a rhino and eventually we returned to camp to freshen up. Once again grabbed some goodies for lunch and we returned for an afternoon drive. Watching elephants is amazing. How they protect their young Masha'Allah. The highlight of the afternoon drive was when we crossed the river and found ourselves in an open plain. For miles and miles we could see herds of animals ! Elephants in their hundreds, buffalo, impala, giraffe – with their long necks on the horizon. I don't think our photos do justice to the awesome sight. Allahu'Akbar.

Chobe is a HUGE reserve and we didn't get very far with exploring it. Our return pretty much covered the same areas we had been to the morning. The lions now fast asleep after filling their bellies. As we returned, so too did the elephants, making their way back over the plains, through the river and into the forest areas of the reserve. I was less scared tonight, I think I got some comfort from putting a face to the noise I heard. I heard elephant and jackal.

Please click on these photos to get some sort of idea of what we saw.

Katimo Mulilo to Kasane 125km

Every time we do a border crossing it feels like we are taking part in 'The Amazing Race' and dash out of the car to get through to the next border. The 2^nd one always goes better as there is generally less people.

Just before the border to Botswana there was a foot and mouth check. We had to walk over something and hand over all fresh goods. Whether it is fact or fiction that all elephants like oranges, I had packed ours into the trailer so that elephants in the reserve we would pass through would not sniff it out! (Yes, I am paranoid – I blame the malaria meds!) When they asked for fresh goods, I gladly handed these over !!

The drive through Chobe Nature reserve, we saw plenty of animals : herds of elephant and zebra. Insha'Allah we'll spend the day there tomorrow.

Kasane looks like a big town so we hope to get supplies there later.

I was cranky – perhaps the toothache I woke up with that morning, perhaps the drugs, perhaps the stress and fears! I was not impressed with this camp. Nothing was marked and it seemed as if one could just park and camp! The ablutions had no doors at all which posed a problem for me with kids with little concept of privacy! Marwaan drove around and around trying to decide on a site and missed out on a potential shady spot! Eventually we opted to share with others. I told myself that we'd spend our time off-camp so it didn't matter.

We took a drive to Kasane. It would seem that the idea of 'animals roaming free in Africa' comes from this area !! We saw warthog, banded mongoose and baboon. As we drove back towards the camp alongside the main road was a watering hole with a herd of elephant! In town there was an Indian restaurant but it sold liquor so we didn't check it out. 

Most of our supply stops were for milk, eggs and bread. A popular store in Botswana is Choppies and it was pretty decent.

When we returned to the camp, we saw elephant in the bush. This camp site has a watering hole and we soon found out that elephant come for a drink. It took me a wheel to fully realise how OPEN the area was. The elephants at the watering hole did not live onsite – they have free access !! If elephants have free access – so do all the OTHER animals !!

At the watering hole there is a bar with a low hanging thatch roof. It provides a great viewing site of the animals. Underneath the raised bar is an even better spot ! Here you are 10m away from elephants and can take EXCELLENT pics. But I soon realised that I was very vulnerable with nothing between me and them !

Our 8pm fire meeting had a serious tone – the tour guide reminded parents that we were in the wild and that kids should be kept close and not left to run wild and free. AND as he was talking , as if on cue, we could hear the animals. An elephant, a lion, a hyena, a jakkal. Aasiyah and I were so scared!! Marwaan thought I was bizarre when I refused to go to the loo and rather use the potty! Even more so when I “locked” myself and the kids in the tent and almost freaked when he stepped out! I sms'd my family and eventually called them – giggling more out of fear than anything else ! Was I being paranoid ? Could I use Tabbard on an animal ? I couldn't sleep – every noise and snore woke me. I blame that animal CD !! I recited Surahs for protection and hoped I had enough breath to blow a big bubble over the entire tent!!